Keeping Imperial / Emperor Scorpions

Welcome to the Imperial or Emperor Scorpion keeping section.

The Imperial scorpion (Pandinus imperator) is a large African species mostly found in West Africa and is generally a forest dwelling species but it is equally at home in desert regions so long as there is suficient moisture. They are often found deep within termite mounds where the temperature and humidity is regulated by the termites.

The easiest way to house your scorpion is in a glass tank of around 12 x 12 x 12 inches, the size is not critical but shouldn't be smaller. Actually the height is fairly unimportant as they don't climb much any higher than their total length, more floor space is what they prefer as they do go forraging at night. They also like to burrow in to the ground especially under a rock or piece of wood so you must provide a suitable substrate for this.

A good mix for the bottom of the tank would consist of 70% sphagnum peat, 20% potting sand and 10% fine grade orchid bark - Jungle substrate and Imperial Scorpion Substrate are available in handy pre packs. This substrate should be added to a depth of 3 to 4 inches to allow natural burrowing.

In their natural environment the temperature rarely drops below 20°C by day or night so you will need to reproduce this in your tank. The simplest method is to use one of the under tank heating mats, preferably with a thermostat fitted. The heating mat should be placed under 1/2 to 3/4 of the tank (at the opposite end to the hiding place) so that there is a cooler area available if the scorpion wants it. The temperature in the tank needs is in the range of 20°C to 25°C at soil level so place the thermostat control (if using one) about an inch above the substrate.

The Imperial Scorpion requires a humidity level higher than desert types. A simple light spray (mist) with a hand sprayer over the substrate twice a day with clean, fresh water may be required. In addition you should water the substrate weekly if it looks like it's drying out. Ideally you should have a dark bottom layer fading to pale near the surface of the substrate. If using vermiculite on its own then you can add 1/4 - 1/2 pint every week, do this by pouring it in to one of the corners and the vermiculite will draw it evenly through itself. Which ever you use you should not over wet it, the idea is to have it slightly moist but dry on the actual surface.

Feeding Imperial Scorpions

Most scorpions will eat almost all small cricket sized insects but anything that stings or bites should not be introduced - there's no point risking your pets. Crickets, mealworm, grasshoppers, stick insects, some cockroaches etc all make good scorpion prey. One vital element is that the insects should be introduced to the tank alive, scorpions will not eat dead insects. If possible you should vary their diet and not feed the same single food source all the time, this will help them develop fully and provide all the minerals, vitamins and fats for good growth.

If using a single food source i.e. just crickets then you should make sure the crickets have been fed a good diet of bug grub (dry food) as well as fruit and vegetables like carrot, potato, green beans, spinnach, dandelion leaves, apple, banana, peach etc not onions! (for moisture)

You can purchase live food from our other site Global Live Food (UK only)

One thing that Imperial Scorpions will do is scavange for food at night so you can occasionally put a frozen defrosted pinkie mouse in the tank and leave it there overnight, the smell may be enough to tempt them to take it. If not taken within 24 hours you should discard the mouse. Large scorpions are unlikely to drown so drinking water can be provided in a shallow dish of 1/2 inch deep, if you scorpions are small or young then you should add well wetted cotton wool or pebbles to the water dish to avoid drowning. I like to use a 2 inch deep dish part filled with pebbles as shown here.

Scorpions will not breed unless they have a 'stage' on which to dance. The mating dance begins by the two scorpions locking their claws and walking forwards and backwards together, they may turn as they are doing this. The stage should be as flat as possible and a good idea is to use a piece of slate on the surface (see housing), this should be large enough so that the pair don't drop off it as this will upset their mating.

After a successful mating the female should be placed in her own tank after 2 - 3 months but before she gives birth. If she gets stressed she may eat the young as they emerge. Gestation varies between species but typically for the large scorpions it can be 5 to 9 months before she will give birth to miniature scorpions. Once they emerge from her fat body they will climb on to her back and remain there for 1 - 2 weeks, as soon as they climb down they should be separated from the mother or she may consider them a meal!

Scorpions will moult as they develop in to adults, each moulting is known as an instar and typically there are 5 or 6 depending on species and whether male or female. Adulthood in achieved in around 3 years from birth.