Welcome to the Millipede section.
Introduction to Giant Millipedes
Millipedes are often confused with Centipedes as both are typically long, thin and with many legs - like a train. Both of them belong to the same class, Myriapoda (many legs), Millipedes then split off in to heir own class called Diplopoda. This generally references to the fact that the segments are actually two segments that are fused together Diplopoda. If you look closely at each of the body segments you will see that there are actually two pairs of legs per segment i.e. 4 legs.
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A common myth is that Millipedes have a thousand legs, this is because of their name (milli derived from Latin for 1000). Typically the actual number of legs is between 100 and 400 depending on the insects age and type, each time the insect moults it adds further segments and therefore legs.
Left: Ghana Chocolate Millipede |
Millipedes can be found in almost all areas of the World but the ones generally kept tend to be from tropical jungle areas of the world where they grow in to giants and often are available in a variety of colours.
| Millipedes are denizens of the dark and are usually found under rotting logs, leaf litter or actually in the soil. They eat the soil as they move through it and extract any vegetation matter held within it. They have poor eyesight which is rudimentary at best and shun the light whenever possible.
Most are capable of excreting a liquid which is used as a defence, this liquid varies in strength between species and some is harmful and can burn the skin or cause irritating rash. Before buying a Millipede to keep as a pet make sure you know if it is capable of producing strong toxins!
Right: African Giant Millipede Archispirostreptus gigas |
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Housing Giant Millipedes
As Millipedes require a moist atmosphere they are best kept in either a glass or plastic fish tank with at least 4 to 5 inches of compost in the base. The tank should be large enough for the adult to stretch out to it's full length. A good size tank would measure 18 inches long x 12 inches wide and 18 inches deep with a lid. If you have a taller tank of perhaps 24 inches high then you need not have a lid on it as the millipede will not be able to escape.
The substrate should be comprised of an open compost such as coir or sphagnum moss peat, a good mixture can also be made up by mixing 70% sphagnum peat with 30% medium grade orchid bark (not orchid compost). Remember that your millipede will consume some of the organic material in the substrate so don't use potting compost which has fertilizer included as this may harm your pet.
Whatever mixture you place in the base of your tank it must be kept moist (not wet) at all times so you may have to spray the compost on a daily basis.
You can, if you want, add some plants in your tank for visual appeal. Plant which look good include Phalaenopsis orchids which will thrive under the same conditions. Leave the plant in it's pot so you can quickly and easily change it when not in flower.
Right: Amber Banded Millipede |
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Temperature for Giant Millipedes
As we mentioned earlier, most of the commonly kept giant millipedes come from tropical or subtropical jungle areas and so they will require some form of additional heating, particularly in the UK.
One of the best (and inexpensive) ways of maintaining the temperature is to use an under tank heating mat fitted with a thermostat. The heating mat should be placed under half the tank base so that the insect can escape to a cooler end of the tank is it wants to.
Temperature requirements slightly but not that much so you should aim to keep the temperature (at compost level) between 65°F - 75°F all year round. A slight drop in temperature at night is acceptable so long as it doesn't drop below 65°F.
As the insects shun the light and have no particular need for light you need not provide any additional lighting except for visual appeal, if you do put a lighting source over the tank then you can expect to see the millipede less often as it will try to get away from it!
Feeding Giant Millipedes
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Millipedes only eat vegetation that is beginning to break down and rot, good food include leaf litter, salad material e.g. lettuce, tomato, cucumber as well as soft fruits like melon, banana, peach. The only thing missing from this menu is calcium. Calcium must be provided in some form as it is used by the insect to make its exoskeleton. The easiest way to provide this and other minerals is to lightly dust the food with multi vitamin and calcium supplement easily obtained from pet shops.
Left: Yellow Head Millipede
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Water & Humidity for Giant Millipedes
Water should be provided in a shallow dish which has a wad of cotton wool placed in it to prevent your insect (or babies) falling in and drowning. The cotton wool wad should be thoroughly wet so the insect can easily get to the water if it needs to.
Humidity must be kept quite high by spraying the tank and compost with fresh clean water on a daily basis. Remember, these insects like it damp and warm but they are not aquatic so don't over do it!
Breeding Giant Millipedes
Millipedes can be sexed easily when adult. The male has 2 of his legs modified in to grasping claws. If you look closely at the 7th segment of your millipedes body you may see that there appears to be one pair of legs seems to be missing or look 'different' to the rest. If this is the case then you have a male. These 2 legs of the male are usually kept tucked right under it's body so this is why they appear to be missing. If all the legs in this area are 'normal' then it's a female.
If you keep a pair of millipedes together you may be lucky enough to see their courtship ritual which involves the male lining up beside the female and vibrating his legs. If the female is willing then she will raise her front end and the male will do the same and they will begin to entwine their bodies. Once they are in the correct position the male will use his adapted two legs to grasp the female and then sperm is passed between them. This process may be repeated many times.
Once ready, the female will burrow in to the compost and create a chamber in which she will deposit her eggs. Some species are active parents and the female will guard the eggs until they hatch, this can take a few weeks so be patient.
Eventually on hatching the miniature millipedes will bury themselves in the compost or if you have a corner of food they will hide amongst it. The babies will be just a few millimetres long and are very difficult to see so be careful when cleaning out your tank and changing the food.
If you have been trying to breed millipedes and suspect that hatchlings may be around it is a good idea to put the old food in a tank of it's own just in case you remove the babies with the food!
Millipedes grow fairly rapidly at first and will begin with just 4 or 5 segments each carrying one pair of legs rather than the normal two. Every time the insect moults it will add further segments and the new segments will usually have the normal two pairs of legs.
From hatching to full maturity can take up to 10 years in some slow growing giant species
Handling Giant Millipedes
| Most of the commonly kept giant millipedes are perfectly harmless if treated with respect during handling, the easiest and safest method is to allow them to crawl on to your hand of their own accord by placing your hand flat on the ground in front of them. If you pick up your millipede from the compost then it may roll in to a ball as it's first level of defence. |
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If you try to prize open the living bundle then it may exude chemicals, this is when you can be harmed in some species. This is their second level of defence and only occurs if the animal feels it's life is in danger. Always handle your millipede firmly but gently and you will have no problems.
It is important to know which species are more likely to exude the liquid and which aren't, even more importantly you should be aware of which ones produce the most toxic of these fluids.
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Stick Insects