Scorpions - How to care for Scorpions

Welcome to the Scorpion keeping section.

Scorpions are fascinating, ancient creatures which, regardless of their country of origin all share the same morphology (look the same) with the now famous curled up stinging tail and large front claws.

All scorpions contain a sting in their tail and the strength of the venom varies incredibly between species. The ones kept as pets tend to have the weakest stings and it can be compared to something like a wasp sting or hornet sting - still not something you want to be stung by!

There are a few scorpions such as the Australian Androctonus australis which can prove fatal and should be avoided at all costs. If you intend keeping scorpions as pets make sure they are the safe ones. There are around 1400 - 1500 hundred known species of carnivorous scorpions in the world, mostly they come from desert regions and tropical rainforests but they are also found in cooler climates including the UK. Left: Asian Hissing Scorpion

Scorpions are often referred to as insects, this is not actually the case. In reality all Scorpions belong to a group of mostly terrestrial (land living) creatures officially classified as Arachnida (sub group Scorpiones). The Arachnid group also contains the order Araneae (spiders), Uropygi (whip scorpions), Amblypygi (tailless whip scorpions) and Solifugae (sun spiders) as well as one or two other orders which are less kept by the hobbyist.

The scorpions which are commonly kept as pets tend to be from tropical rainforests as these are the largest, most impressive and generally speaking less venomous types. Most of the 'pet scorpions' live for several years in captivity, 5 years+ not being uncommon.

Commonly kept pet scorpions include the Emperor or Imperial Scorpion (Pandinus imperator) which is native to tropical forests of West Africa and can also be found lurking deep inside termite mounds. It is a jet black monster which can reach 6+ inches long! Thankfully this species is fairly docile and reluctant to strike at you unless provoked. Right: Imperial Scorpion juvenile Pandinus imperator

Reasonably 'safe' ones with a sting like a wasp or hornet include: Imperial Scorpion - Pandinus imperator (the easiest - see left) Flat Rock Scorpion - Hadogenes species Java Forest Scorpion - Hetrometrus javanensis Shiny Burrowing Scorpion - Oposthophalmus glabrifrons (more painful) Tanzanian Redclaw Scorpion - Pandinus cavimanus (more painful) Thai/Vietnam Black Scorpion - Heterometrus spinifer (more painful) Kits are available for most of the above plus lots more species

Scorpions in the wild are very resilient and can go without food and water for months on end seemingly without any detriment. When kept as pets though they should have ample food available for their requirements otherwise they may start to eat each other. Generally they are best kept singly but some less aggressive species can be kept in small groups of up to 4 providing they have ample food, floor space and hiding places.

As we mentioned above, the most commonly kept scorpions tend to be jungle types and so they will require a reasonably humid environment. The easiest way to house your scorpion is in a terrarium of around 12 - 18 inches wide and high, the size is not critical but shouldn't bee too small. They also like to burrow in to the ground especially under a rock or piece of wood so you must provide a suitable substrate for this. A good mix for the bottom of the tank would consist of 70% sphagnum peat, 20% potting sand and 10% fine grade orchid bark or Faunology Scorpion Substrates are available. Here's a good kit for the typical jungle type scorpion, this group includes Imperial or Emperor, Red Claw, Cave Claw, Heterometrus species, Java Forest, Vietnam Hissing etc, HOUSING 1 x Exo Terra Glass Terrarium (30 x 30 x 30cm) HEATING 1 x Electric heater (6 x 11 with plug) SUBSTRATE 2 x 5 litres of Jungle substrate DECOR 1 x Gnarled Looking Wood Chunk 1 x Cave Hide 2 x Silk Plants OTHER EQUIPMENT 1 x Dial thermometer 1 x Dial hygrometer 1 x Water dish 1 x Scorpions Book     An alternative to the above substrates is vermiculite on it's own, this has the advantage of being sterile so it wont contain mite and wont allow them to flourish, bits can stick to the scorpion and it does tend to look a tad drab! Whichever substrate you choose it should be added to a depth of 3 to 4 inches with a couple of pieces of cork bark, a large(ish) piece of slate or something similar added to the surface as 'obstacles' as they also like to clamber over things. Artificial reptile caves either on the surface or partially burried are also good hiding spots for the scorpions. They will pretty quickly establish their 'best home' and this will be their base of operations. Left: Israeli Gold Scorpion - Scorpio maurus palmatus

The substrate should be slightly damp but not wet when you add it to the tank. The substrate in the base of the tank should be replaced with fresh material every 3 to 4 months - even longer if all looks fine and clean, more frequently if it gets dirty or mites are seen.

In their natural environment the temperature rarely drops below 20°C by day or night so you will need to reproduce this in your tank. The simplest method is to use one of the under tank heating mats, preferably with a thermostat fitted. The heating mat should be placed under 1/2 to 3/4 of the tank (at the opposite end to the hiding place) so that there is a cooler area available if the scorpion wants it. The temperature in the tank needs is in the range of 20°C to 25°C at soil level so place the thermostat control (if using one) about an inch above the substrate.

The jungle type scorpions require a humidity level higher than desert types. A simple light spray (mist) with a hand sprayer over the substrate twice a day with clean, fresh water may be required. In addition you should water the substrate weekly if it looks like it's drying out. Ideally you should have a dark bottom layer fading to pale near the surface of the substrate. If using vermiculite on its own then you can add 1/4 - 1/2 pint every week, do this by pouring it in to one of the corners and the vermiculite will draw it evenly through itself. Which ever you use you should not over wet it, the idea is to have it slightly moist but dry on the actual surface.

Despite their radically different homes, most of the commonly kept scorpions have much the same requirements for housing, only the external habitat changes as the scorpions will always find a suitable home in deep cracks or under rocks. Use the same basic set up as described above but use desert sand or desert type for these species rather than the jungle type substrate used for forest scorpions and keep them a little dryer. Left: This is a beautiful and pretty harmless Flat Rock Scorpion - Hadogenes bicolor

Feeding Pet Scorpions

Most scorpions will eat almost all small cricket sized insects but anything that stings or bites should not be introduced - there's no point risking your pets. Crickets, mealworm, grasshoppers, stick insects, some cockroaches etc all make good scorpion prey. One vital element is that the insects should be introduced to the tank alive, scorpions will not eat dead insects. If possible you should vary their diet and not feed the same single food source all the time, this will help them develop fully and provide all the minerals, vitamins and fats for good growth. If using a single food source i.e. just crickets then you should make sure the crickets have been fed a good diet of bug grub as well as fruit and vegetables like carrot, potato, green beans, spinnach, dandelion leaves, apple, banana, peach etc not onions!

You can purchase live food from our other site Global Live Food (UK only)

Large scorpions are unlikely to drown so drinking water can be provided in a shallow dish of 1/2 inch deep, if you scorpions are small or young then you should add well wetted cotton wool or pebbles to the water dish to avoid drowning.

Scorpions will not breed unless they have a 'stage' on which to dance. The mating dance begins by the two scorpions locking their claws and walking forwards and backwards together, they may turn as they are doing this. The stage should be as flat as possible and a good idea is to use a piece of slate on the surface (see housing), this should be large enough so that the pair don't drop off it as this will upset their mating.

The dance can continue from a few minutes to several hours or even days, at a suitable time the male will deposit a packet of sperm on to the surface of the slate stage, this is called a spermatophore. The female will then position her body over the sperm sack and collect it with her cloacae (genital opening). Once the female has collected the sperm the dance will end and the female is now pregnant!

	After a successful mating the female should be placed in her own tank after 2 - 3 months but before she gives birth. If she gets stressed she may eat the young as they emerge. Gestation varies between species but typically for the large scorpions it can be 5 to 9 months before she will give birth to miniature scorpions. Left: Baby Jones' Scorpion - Cheloctonus jonesii
Once they emerge from her fat body they will climb on to her back and remain there for 1 - 2 weeks, as soon as they climb down they should be separated from the mother or she may consider them a meal!

Scorpions will molt as they develop in to adults, the time between each molting is known as an instar and typically there are 5 or 6 depending on species and whether male or female. Adulthood in achieved in around 3 years from birth.

Keeping Stick Insects - How to care for Stick Insects

Welcome to the stick insect section.

Introduction to Stick Insects

Stick insects are amongst the easiest of exotic insects to keep and breed at home. They are mostly from tropical or sub tropical regions of the world such as India, South America, Africa, Australia and similar warm areas including Europe.

They are commonly called stick insects as many of them resemble small twigs and branches which is their camouflage against being eaten. Not all of them resemble sticks however, some of them resemble leaves, flowers, moss and so on, it depends on what their natural environment is like. Left: Philippine Stick Insect

There are around 3000 different type of stick insect, actually they are part of an insect group called Phasmida which is derived from the Latin for phantom (phasma), this is because they are very difficult to find in their environment and that they shed their external skeleton (exoskeleton) usually in one piece resulting in a 'phantom' stick insect. Most stick insects shed their exoskeletons around 6 times during their life time and each one is shed because they have grown too large for their existing one. Each period of growth between moulting is know as an instar, the first instar period begins on the hatching from the egg case. When buying stick insects this can be used to give an indication of age and life expectancy. Typically nymphs are sold at their third or fourth instar stage.

The most commonly kept stick insect in the UK is without doubt the Indian Stick Insect (Carausius morosus) which is grows to a length of around 4 inches and is a buff/green colour and very easy to care for.

Some of the more exotic species such as the Malaysian Jungle Nymph (Heteroptryx dilatata) is a huge insect of up to 8 or 9 inches in length and one of the heaviest of all insects. The female of this particular species is also bright green in colour and has small darker green spines over the body. Left top: Malaysian Jungle Nymph (young) Heteroptryx dilatata Left: Malaysian Jungle nymph adult male - note the extremely spiny rear legs, these are it's defence mechanism and can inflict a painful stab! Another large stick insect is the Giant Prickly Stick Insect of Australia, this one measures up to 7 inches in length and is a golden tan coloured heavy insect which looks great in a vivarium.

Most of the species are capable of living between 1 and 2 years and during this time they will breed quite readily producing hundreds of eggs which can take up to 12 months to hatch. Interestingly the females are able to lay viable eggs without the need for fertilisation, this is known as parthenogenesis and in some of the species it is though that the entire population is female! Right: Sabah Spiny Stick Insect

Housing Stick Insects

Stick insects like a little space to move around in and an ideal home would be an inexpensive aquarium or vivarium which as a mesh lid instead of the usual plastic or glass one. This will allow plenty of fresh air in to the tank which is required if keeping stick insects. Special insect cages can also be purchased and these are mesh on all 4 sides and the top.

The base of the tank can be fitted with either plain paper or a mixture of soil and peat, this must be cleaned out every couple of weeks to prevent the build up of waste. Some resting places for your stick insects will also be required such as nicely shaped branches and even a few potted plants, these can be artificial ones if you prefer so that they aren't eaten. Not only will these additions to the tank provide somewhere for your insects to rest but will make the whole tank look much more like a small ecosystem.

You should be able to keep 6 adults in a tank of 18 inches long x 12 inches deep x 15 inches high, if you try to keep too many in a tank then they will have too much contact and some may become damaged as a result.

Temperature & Lighting

Most of the stick insects come from temperate areas of the world and need a temperature of between 65°F at night and 80°F during the day, this can easily be achieved using under tank heating mats commonly used by aquarists. A thermostat should be kept inside the tank to ensure that the temperature doesn't get too warm or cold.

Common Indian stick insects can usually be kept quite easy in a warm living room without any heating during the summer months provided the temperature doesn't drop much below 65°F. Almost all of the insects will appreciate a slight drop in temperature at night, this depends on the particular species - the more tropical the less fluctuation as near the equator the temperature remains fairly constant throughout the year.

The humidity requirements for stick insects are fairly easy to achieve and misting the plants and or substrate daily will give the desired result, don't over do it though and get things too wet as fungus, bacteria and moulds may begin to grow and affect your insects.

Feeding Stick Insects

Most stick insects are easily fed on common bramble (blackberry) but their diet should include a mixture of plants to give additional minerals and salts which would be deficient in a single food source diet. Suitable other foods include Oak leaves, Rose leaves, Privet, Hawthorne and Ivy leaves. 

All of the plants that you feed your insects should be free of pesticides as these may kill your pets. It is a good idea to grow some of the food plants yourself in pots which can be placed in to the tank and removed once they have been eaten. 

If you decide to gather your plant material from the countryside make sure you have permission if it's needed and don't gather plants from near roads as they will most likely bee contaminated by lead from car exhausts. If you do gather plants then you should take small leafy branches which should be placed in to a container of water such as a milk bottle and the neck should be packed with cotton wool to prevent any insects from getting in. Once the leaves have been eaten or died they should be replaced.

Keeping Pet Beetles in Captivity

Introduction to Exotic Beetles

Beetles (Coleoptera) have been around for millions of years and provide a janitorial service to us all. They are experts at clearing up waste in one form or another and are found in virtually all countries of the world.

They belong to the group coleoptera which contains over 400,000 different species of beetle currently named to date and is sub divided in to a further five main sub categories: polyphaga (the main one), Adephaga (mostly predatory), Myxophaga (tiny beetles) and Archostemata.

The most popular beetles fall in to the first category, this is because around 85% of all beetles belong to this group and include the giant beetles and the colourful ones, these are the ones often kept in captivity. Mostly the giants come from Africa and Asia as this natural environment allows then to grow in to huge beetles. This beetle (right) is from Africa and it is the Rhino Beetle, named as a result of the horn on the front as pictured here. This beetle grows to a size of around 3 inches in length and feeds on leaf litter, fruits and the grubs on rotting wood.

This is one of the jewel beetles - Sagra buqueti from South East Asia, it is commonly known as the Frog Beetle due to the large back legs. The beetles exoskeleton is green with a cerise and gold coloured band running down its back. As you can see this beetle is metallic looking all over.

Right:Pachnoda marginata peregrina Another very popular beetle is this Sun Beetle - Pachnoda marginata peregrina. It is an excellent starter beetle as it is easily bred and the life cycle of around 4 - 6 months means that the owner can see results of the labour fairly quickly. This beetle feeds on fruit.

The Giant African Ground Beetle - Anthina thorocica is a 2 inch long carnivorous beetle with huge insect crushing jaws. In captivity it can be fed on most commercially available live foods which it takes with relish!

Housing Beetles

Beetles are easily kept in small tanks filled with leaf litter, compost or similar unfertilized substrate. They will often consume the substrate so it should be free from pesticides and plant food.

The tank need not be more than 12 x 10 x 12 which could accommodate up to 12 small to medium size beetles depending on the species. Larger colonies can be housed in larger tanks in which case many different species can be kept together so long as they are not carnivorous in nature!

The substrate most often used is a mixture of oak leaves, rotted wood and peat or loam, this is usually made up by the keeper and provides a great many of the fruit beetles and other commonly kept beetles the perfect place to breed.

Some beetles however have much more specific breeding requirements and we will discuss these later.

Here are some photos of a recent batch of Pachnoda beetles starting with a fully developed pupae.